Nairobi is cold! Damp, gray, drizzling, and cold, so I was beyond delighted when some friends suggested that we run away to Lamu for the weekend. Lamu is a pole pole type island off the kenyan coast. It has 40 some mosques and about 2 cars. Our entire point for being there was to sit in the sun, shop for silver, and eat fish in as many varieties as possible.
We flew down because otherwise its a 9 hour bus to mombasa and another 6 hours to the mainland by lamu. We landed at Manda airport, which is so laid back that its scary. Thatched roofs and a sand runway. its a short walk to the jetty and then a 10 minute ride on a "ferry" or anything that potentially floats with an outboard motor. On our flight, I met Coconut, a fisherman with a dhow. He arranged ferries and took us into the morass of Lamu town to find a cheap hotel for the next few days. Ultimately we stettled on the Archipelago Hotel by the waterfront. Lamu is fantastic for the lack of real pricing. "3500 for 3 people" says the proprieter. We gasp in shock and outrage and the price is lowered a bit. Then the haggling begins. We get the room for 3000, which is a bit more than we wanted to pay, but the sun is setting and there is wandering to be done. To fit in, we dubbed ourselves with Lamu-style nicknames. Captain Mango, Pineapple, and Kikoy were born.
We wandered into and out of sliver smiths (2 rings), tropical boutiques (yet more kiloys and kangas), and cafes (mango-passion juice, and chai tangawezi). Prices were given and negotiated, and compared to the shops of mombassa, everyone was very chill. If you didn't want to buy, you walked out and the proprietor said, "come again." its a refreshing change. we also found our way to the hotel Bahari at the far end of Lamu town. The rooftop verandah was spectacular, the lamu beds were beautiful, and the price was cheaper. We made arrangements to stay there the next night.
Dinner was had at Miraa, a rooftop restaurant with swahili food and swahili prices. Prawn curry and coconut rice was great; less so was the TV blaring an old episode of charmed, so we left shortly after getting food. Then we wandered back via Petley's Landing, for a beer. It is muslim island almost exclusively. So beer, wine, and booze can only be bought from some select locals. Petleys din of inequity was our haunt. We wrapped up the night with the wine we brought from Nairobi and an entertaining game of Kings.
Day two was our adventure with Coconut and his crew. Its a typical tourist adventure, but one definatly worth it. we set sail on the dhow at around 10 and set off for the channels. We were going fishing. I managed to catch a juvenile yellow snapper, which was beautiful, but hardly worth eating. It was fun. Then we were off to the beaches on Manda island for the more sun, sea, and sand. Coconut, et all cooked up a lunch for us. Coconut rice, salad, fruit, and fish cooked in hot coals. It was a basically perfect day. We came back and some more tuskers at petleys. More fish for dinner, and a lazy evening sitting on the roof of the Bahari. We saw scorpio and the leonids star shower.
Day three was our last day. how sad! We wandered and ambled for a bit. Found a man who swore his wife did the best henna on the island. So I got my hands done. I will have the memory of heat and tropics on my hands for the next two weeks. Eventually though, we had to make our way back to Manda airport. Upon arrival we were told that the plane was delayed for an hour. Captain mango and Pineapple changed into swim suits and went off for a swim. I wandered around a bit and read. There is not exactly a whole lot to do on manda island, particularly on that end. Also, I got rabidly sunburned on my shoulders on the dhow trip. So any sun was painful.
Unfortunately the plane was only delayed and not cancelled. We went off at 4:00 and were back in Nairobi at 6. Que barbaridad! Nairobi is slightly warmer than a remember, but that might be the heat that my shoulders are generating. Pictures will be forthcoming!
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