"Intergenerational Sex Stops With You" and other life lessons from Uganda

It seems strange that after 9 or so years in East Africa this was the first trip ever to Uganda. I largely went for work related reasons. The WORTH program has some savings groups in Mbale, Uganda and that was my first destination. Henry, the Salvation Army driver, collected me from the airport and drove me the three hours to Mbale proper. I had the beginings of what would become a raging head cold, so i was not the best company one could imagine. Henry didn't seem to mind, though.

Once in Mbale, I was introduced to Meddi and Dorothy, who are the assistant WORTH coordinators for Uganda. They are both the most amazing and creative women. great fun was had, minus my fever, head ache, and stuffy nose. I checked into the sunrise hotel at with a fantastic view of Mt. Elgon and promptly slept through the night.

Thursday morning saw my first site visits. These women mean business. Its amazing watching 25 women bring what amounts to pennies to their meetings and watch them accumulate. I was also audience to the generosity and hospitality of Ugandans. Getting visitors, particularly of the mzungu variety, was special for them. The women were delighted to read drafts of my dialogues and give me input, although I think there were a bit taken back by my desire for their input. I need to practice my pre-tests. Malaria for children and STI for women are the big concerns in these areas. We stayed with the first group for several hours and then heading further up the mountain ridges for the second. Again, the women saved together, made some loans, and told me how exciting it will be when the loan cycle ends. At the end, the women divide up the interest paid on the loans as 'dividends.' The chairwoman at this particular group refers to herself as the Bank Director because she says thats what she's doing. It had rained during the meeting, and our truck was stuck in the mud. They wouldn't let me help push and eventually the car got going. Mud driving is not my favorite activity.

Friday morning I went to one savings group and then I drove back to Kampala, where i was meeting up with my study abroad roommate. She is working for an NGO in Kampala for a year, and when far away friends find their way to not so far away places, its best to track them down. We were supposed to go out to dinner, but that was rudely interrupted by a purse snatcher, who grabbed my bag. I lost all my money, my cell phone, and my passport. Part of it is on me for being absent minded and forgetting that the passport was in there, but mostly it was on bastards who steal other peoples property.

Thus began my stay in Kampala. After the robbery, we went to the Jinja Road police station where I had to make a statement. The first officer taking my statement had terrible handwriting and a slightly lacking grasp of English. He spelled my name Katherhain Krachmher and said i was 42 years old. He also said I lost my UK passport. it improved when they were taking my statement, probably because my blond host attracted the eye of the officer in charge of the station. After all this went on, we were trying to get out of the jinja road police station, which was harder than we thought it would be. Eventually, the officer in charge told us some transport was coming. Shortly thereafter, a chinese man drove up in an electric blue beetle, followed by another chinese man in a pick up truck. Thus our ride had arrived. Ten minutes of chinese pop music and stilted conversation later, we arrived at the house and i went to bed.

Saturday morning began the round of chores that needed to be done in order to get my life together enough to leave. I had to get an official report from the Jinja road station. The consulate was closed until monday, so i had to change my flight out of Uganda as well. I also went and got several US Visa sized photos taken. Then we went and got touristy. We took boda bodas (small motorcycle/scooter taxis) to the Buganda tombs. Its the worlds largest thatched hut and a world heritage site, and then we went to the craft markets. Craft markets in africa are suprisingly homogenious. Most of what was in Kampala could be bought in nairobi for around the same price. We had lunch at an indian restaurant nearby and ran into two other ex pats. they were in town for the release of the ugandan demographic and health survey. it is like my bible. We had a lazy, lazy lunch that stretched for hours. I learned from them that 84% of ugandan women thought that wife beating was acceptable, and that a journalist at a workshop thought that deserved the headline "Women Like to be Beaten." I think he missed the point. Health and such in Uganda is a seemingly big thing. it pioneered ABC, but people say now that low prevelance rates have more to do with fewer people being tested. There are also adds all over the place warning against sugar daddies and IG sex. The radio spots are great if you are ever in the region. the day ended with a run to the internet cafe that was quickly aborted because the internet is lazy and slow and bootlegged DVDs.

Sunday was brunch at the serena, expensive but well worth it considering I didn't need to eat for two days following. We lazed around by the pool at the serena, gawked at the security measures, and watched the Aga Khan fly in on helicopters. Monday I went to the consulate and basically want to thank god and my parents that i am an american citizen. I was placed at the head of the cues and was generally hustled though the whole process. I got a brand new (temporary) passport in less than 30 minutes and was free to leave the country, which I did at 8 pm that night, following some eating, some television, and the 45 minute drive from Kampala to Entebbe. All in all, I am delighted to be home.