As We Peer Into The Great Unknown

Written April 7, 09

So, technically its not really a new year, but I figured now would be a good time to describe some of the changes in my world. Having been here for 18 months (yes, I am 2/3rd done…how weird is that?), I have finally figured out what is normal and routine, just in time for it to change. From new money, cell phone plans, and transportation the foundations of my existence are shaking, but mostly in a good way.

We got new buses in Mary. The president came for a visit in the beginning of March, and he gave a public transportation system to the welyat. There is a system of buses that runs from practically every oba to etrap and regional center. From my village the buses run to Mary City every half hour and cost about $0.20 each way. This is cheaper than the old taxis or mini buses. The buses, though, take a lot longer and stop a lot more. There are always downsides, I suppose.

My clinic got a new ambulance. This is another gift from the president, and it’s pretty cool. I am delighted because I think my clinic is moving towards greater prominence. It used to be a district hospital in the Soviet era, but it fell into disrepir and disuse since independence. In the time that I’ve been here, the government built a new family health clinic, gave them an ambulance, and sent out an engineer to draw up plans to build a new birthing ward. My director and I are working on a second grant to remodel a few rooms to improve the children’s ward. I guess I like feeling like the work I am doing is in conjunction with an integrated plan. I don’t feel as isolated in my projects as some volunteers do.

We got new money. On January 1st, Turkmenistan introduced a new currency. It is much prettier than the old currency. 5,000 old manat is worth 1 new manat. This is slightly annoying for me because not only do I have to do a lot of math on a daily basis, I now earn 500 manat a month. This is psychologically devastating, as I used to earn 2.5 million. Wa Hey (Turkmen expression of regret and commiseration). For the duration of this year, both currencies are accepted legal tender. On December 31st, 2009, the old currency will become worthless.

Our new volunteers have settled into their little worlds, which on occasion (usually Fridays) connect with mine. In Mary, 7 new volunteers came, though 1 left. Peace Corps isn’t for everyone, and I think there are quite a few of us (myself included) that would probably be happier and better adjusted people if we considered ET-ing with more seriousness.* Anyway, the other 6 are doing fine, operating the new buses, currencies, and language with more savvy than me most of the time.

Spring has arrived and summer is taking its time arriving (I still wear sweaters and it’s APRIL!!!!!!!!!!!!! This time last year I was already dehydrated).


*I recently got a letter from my father, and he described being torn between wanting to be supportive when I was struggling and just telling me to come home. I am glad in the end that he chose the former. And, while I am happy being where I and with what I’m doing, it took a lot of heartache, struggles, and diarrhea to get to this point. I hope it will be worth it, but I’ve still got nine months until I’m sure.