Like a Horse and Carriage

Written March 25

Weddings are a major part of Turkmen social, political, and economic culture. Socially, everyone loves a wedding. They love to get out the nice koyneks, to shine shoes, and see neighbors resplendent in finery. Politically, marriages are family affairs. Parents often arrange marriages and the bride price paid can sometimes double or triple a yearly income. Money is always political. Economically, it seems like one out of ever three businesses is some how connected to weddings. There are the banquet halls that are rented. The seamstresses that make the cupcake confection-like wedding dress. There are the wedding singers that will roll up into your oba and make a concert arena out of a flat bed truck. There are the caterers, the emcees, and of course the hordes of photographers and other media experts. No wedding would be complete without a souvenir photo with the bride and groom!

I went to the wedding of a college’s daughter on Saturday (March 22). Practically my whole clinic showed up, and we all rode together. The bride was beautiful, and she was the first Turkmen bride that I saw in a Turkmen wedding ensemble. It was red and embroidered. Most brides opt for western style dresses that wouldn’t look out of place on Barbie.

It was really nice to socialize with my clinic staff outside of the clinic. We got to talk about yakas (embroidered collars) and the cost of our dresses. The men got to smuggle vodka from the restaurant as they left. (The women don’t drink.) And, it was also a “water cooler” or “cay (pronounced chay) chat” subject this week. We get updates on how she’s settling in as a married woman and details on how the bride price will be spent.

I’m told that in a few months I will never want to attend another toy again. I will stand fast against bad chorba (soup) and mysterious meat dishes. I will reject the dancing and the poorly sung renditions of Turkmen pop. Maybe that’s true, but for the moment, it’s still a good time.