my host sister as a bride
Friday, November 14, 2008
Like a Horse and Carriage
Written November 12, 2008
My host sister has been engaged for as long as I’ve known the family. when I arrived for my site visit last November, I was told her toy (wedding) would be held in March, right after her 17th birthday. I was a little askanced at the age, but different times, places, and cultures. At any rate, the wedding was postponed several times. Weddings here are expensive and it takes time to gather up the funds.
As I left for turkey, I was told that the wedding would be held on the 20th of October. I was a bit skeptical, as this was about the 4th date I had been given. So, I went off to
For the girl’s toy, 400 people were coming to my house in the village to eat, drink, make toasts, and dance. On Sunday, I spent at least 4 hours stuffing peppers and cabbage leaves for soup. Pretty much all the relatives were enlisted. Neighbors were preparing Russian salads. Two cows were being slaughtered and a singer was brought in from the city. I was frankly overwhelmed. The festivities began about 7 pm. We ate, and I took lots of photographs. The dancing lasted until about
The next morning was the Gelen Algy. This is a ritualized ‘claiming’ of the bride. The groom’s family and friends form raiding party. I’m sure in days past this was on horseback through the deserts, but now it’s done in Ladas and Camrys. The bride’s family meets the groom’s and tries to obstruct them from reaching the bride. The groom’s people have to bribe their way foreward with gifts of money, candy, hankerchiefs, and other such things. Also, there is a band playing.
Then the groom comes out with the bride. A Turkmen bride traditionally decked out is a site to behold. She wears an elaborately embroidered coat, covers her head completely, and has silver brooches and jewelry (weiging up to 20 kilos) all over her. She doesn’t speak. The groom’s family has to buy the bride’s shoes. My host sister’s cost 200,000 manat. I am told this is quite expensive, but my host sister’s worth it. The night of the Gelen Algy is the Groom’s toy. This party was held in a restaurant in
That concluded the direct wedding related festivities, but a week after the wedding I had to attend a Gelen Cagrygy. This is a meal that the bride puts on in her new home for her unmarried female relatives. It gives us a chance to check in on her and make sure she’s alright. It was a lot of fun, and I could tell my host sister enjoyed being mistress of ceremonies. I took more photos. If the internet is moving fast enough I will be posting them, but we shall see. There will be another Gelen Cagyrgy at my house sometime next week or the week after. I am told that will be the end of the wedding related events.
It’s been a bit of a head trip, but one that I’m glad I got to take.
So Baby Close Your Eyes To the Lullabies On the News Tonight
Written November 12
I’ve been a very bad blogger and profuse apologies to those who look to Lawyers, Guns, and Money for up the minute updates on life in
Second, my parents came to visit. This was fantastic on many fronts. I saw my mommy and my daddy for the first time in more than a year. We spent a week trekking around Ashgabat, Mary, and my oba. Yes, the American parents spent 2 and a half days in the village, meeting my friends and seeing where I live. It was great!
Third, I went on a vacation! I took my first vacation out of country. Mummy, Daddy, and I spent 6 days in
Fourth, my host sister, who has been engaged as long as I’ve known her, got married upon my return from vacation. There was a wedding party for
Fifth, and final: those new volunteers that were mentioned way back on the beginning came to Mary for their site visits. Of the 43, 7 are coming to my welyat and we rolled out the red carpet for them. Due to budget cuts and whatnot, training has been cut by two weeks, so the new volunteers arrive at site permanently around December 8th. I continue to wish them the best in traning. I’m excited to get to know them later.
Anyway, that’s my deal…I’ve been busy. It’s been cold and I promise to do better. Upcoming events include: Thanksgiving with organic turkeys, LSAT and adventures in Ashgabat, and a holiday trip home!
Saturday, September 20, 2008
Photograph just for a laugh
Thursday, September 18, 2008
Build A Little Birdhouse in Your Soul
Written September 10
I’ve found that it’s much easier to get through time here, if it’s broken up in to chunks with little victories and treats to look foreword to. For example, this month will end with my parent’s visit! After that, the next major event on the horizon will be thanksgiving.
It may seem early to be considering Thanksgiving, but being here invariable means that things take three to four times as long as they would otherwise. But, planning ahead will ensure we can gather all of our fixings and celebrate to the fullest. It does require a lot of arranging. People are begging for their favorite goodies, and don’t worry, I’ll be joining their ranks by the end of this e-mail. There aren’t cranberries here, nor sage for stuffing. One volunteer is dead seat on bacon bits and mini marshmallows for green bean casserole and sweet potatoes respectively. Then there is the Turkey; it simply wouldn’t be thanksgiving without it.
After much deliberation and debate, we decided to raise our own. Actually, we aren’t raising them, She is. (Peace Corps has this thing about using names of people without permission; she probably would say yes, but I haven’t ask. This is my cover my bases in a litigious society.) She lives in a tiny village—the oba of the obas, and she decided that the only way we could get a turkey that had been fed more than watermelon rinds was to feed them herself. So, she went to the bazaar and spent about 5 dollars on two chicks. We hope they will fatten up in the next few months.
She also made this interactive, by leaving messages and photos of the chicks in our mailbox. We have questions to answer and points to ponder. For example, right now their names are either Bill and Ted or Pepe and Juanita. My vote is for Bill and Ted because they are both boys. Apparently boy turkeys are more delicious than the girls. I would have assumed the reverse, but you learn new things every day. We are also encouraged to submit diets. So far, the best has been to force feed them onions and garlic so as to imbue them with flavor even before they get close to the oven. I wonder if that would work? At the moment, though they have corn and wheat germ.
We already have the executioner lined up. He killed some birds last year, so he has the experience. I am just so thrilled at how we will create an all American holiday in the midst of what is decidedly not America. There will be more updates on the Turkeys from time to time, so keep reading. Stay tuned for such riveting information as color, age, weight, and perhaps even photos if I can steal them from her!
Now for the begging part…you knew it was coming and read on anyway! If anyone wants to contribute to operation thanksgiving we would appreciate any or all of the following.
All Spice (a jar)
Bacon Bits (2-3 packages)
Those thin fried onion things (2-3 packages)
Canned green beans (2-3 cans)
Cranberry sauce (jellied and with fruit)
Pie pans (2)
A meat thermometer (one—I’d rather not get salmonella)
Mini marshmallows (one package)
Brown Sugar (2 packages)
Sage
Packaged gravy mix for next day sandwiches (3-4)
Muffin Pan (1)
If you send something, please make a note of it in the comments section and the amount sent. I will appreciate everything that comes, but I have a fear of endless cranberry sauce. Please read the comments before sending.
I’ve found that it’s much easier to get through time here, if it’s broken up in to chunks with little victories and treats to look foreword to. For example, this month will end with my parent’s visit! After that, the next major event on the horizon will be thanksgiving.
It may seem early to be considering Thanksgiving, but being here invariable means that things take three to four times as long as they would otherwise. But, planning ahead will ensure we can gather all of our fixings and celebrate to the fullest. It does require a lot of arranging. People are begging for their favorite goodies, and don’t worry, I’ll be joining their ranks by the end of this e-mail. There aren’t cranberries here, nor sage for stuffing. One volunteer is dead seat on bacon bits and mini marshmallows for green bean casserole and sweet potatoes respectively. Then there is the Turkey; it simply wouldn’t be thanksgiving without it.
After much deliberation and debate, we decided to raise our own. Actually, we aren’t raising them, She is. (Peace Corps has this thing about using names of people without permission; she probably would say yes, but I haven’t ask. This is my cover my bases in a litigious society.) She lives in a tiny village—the oba of the obas, and she decided that the only way we could get a turkey that had been fed more than watermelon rinds was to feed them herself. So, she went to the bazaar and spent about 5 dollars on two chicks. We hope they will fatten up in the next few months.
She also made this interactive, by leaving messages and photos of the chicks in our mailbox. We have questions to answer and points to ponder. For example, right now their names are either Bill and Ted or Pepe and Juanita. My vote is for Bill and Ted because they are both boys. Apparently boy turkeys are more delicious than the girls. I would have assumed the reverse, but you learn new things every day. We are also encouraged to submit diets. So far, the best has been to force feed them onions and garlic so as to imbue them with flavor even before they get close to the oven. I wonder if that would work? At the moment, though they have corn and wheat germ.
We already have the executioner lined up. He killed some birds last year, so he has the experience. I am just so thrilled at how we will create an all American holiday in the midst of what is decidedly not America. There will be more updates on the Turkeys from time to time, so keep reading. Stay tuned for such riveting information as color, age, weight, and perhaps even photos if I can steal them from her!
Now for the begging part…you knew it was coming and read on anyway! If anyone wants to contribute to operation thanksgiving we would appreciate any or all of the following.
All Spice (a jar)
Bacon Bits (2-3 packages)
Those thin fried onion things (2-3 packages)
Canned green beans (2-3 cans)
Cranberry sauce (jellied and with fruit)
Pie pans (2)
A meat thermometer (one—I’d rather not get salmonella)
Mini marshmallows (one package)
Brown Sugar (2 packages)
Sage
Packaged gravy mix for next day sandwiches (3-4)
Muffin Pan (1)
If you send something, please make a note of it in the comments section and the amount sent. I will appreciate everything that comes, but I have a fear of endless cranberry sauce. Please read the comments before sending.
Keep It Light Enough To Travel
Written September 3, 2008
This is my dreadfully (In)exhaustive Packing List. I tried really hard to remember what I like/wanted/hoped for in training, but it does seem pretty far away from where I am no. Pretty much, you should only be packing for the first three months. Once you’re here and know you sites, you can get a better feel for what you will need.
Slip on-shoes: a dressy pair for work and croc-like shoes to make banya/outhouse runs.
Rechargeable batteries: they have weird AA batteries from China that aren’t the same size as American ones
Spices: Turkmen food is on the bland side
Computer and flash drive: saves time and electricity is pretty reliable
Favorite books, movies, and TV shows: mostly I want to borrow them from you, and sometimes you just need stuff in English
An album of family photos: practice saying talking about the photos using the Turkmen CD “Bu meng ejem” etc.
Camera: there will definitely be some memories you want to last a lifetime.
Good crayons and markers: you will come to hate crap office supplies from China
Gifts for 2 host families: be generous in your estimate of how many people are in a family. We don’t do it nuclear here.
Long underwear: I doubt you will suffer through the coldest winter since 1969, but it’s still good to have something under your koyneks.
A good sleeping bag: ditto on the winter, but you will crash on floors, trains, and my sleeping bag is the best thing I brought to this country.
Clothes: don’t overly stress about what to bring; be sort of conservative. Mostly, I recommend bringing stuff that’s durable. You will be hand washing and wearing and tearing. For training (girls) two or three below the knee skirts and some shirts will keep you in good stead. But if you have a pair of red shoes or a little black dress that you can’t live without, bring it. At any rate you can wear them in Ashgabat.
This is my dreadfully (In)exhaustive Packing List. I tried really hard to remember what I like/wanted/hoped for in training, but it does seem pretty far away from where I am no. Pretty much, you should only be packing for the first three months. Once you’re here and know you sites, you can get a better feel for what you will need.
Slip on-shoes: a dressy pair for work and croc-like shoes to make banya/outhouse runs.
Rechargeable batteries: they have weird AA batteries from China that aren’t the same size as American ones
Spices: Turkmen food is on the bland side
Computer and flash drive: saves time and electricity is pretty reliable
Favorite books, movies, and TV shows: mostly I want to borrow them from you, and sometimes you just need stuff in English
An album of family photos: practice saying talking about the photos using the Turkmen CD “Bu meng ejem” etc.
Camera: there will definitely be some memories you want to last a lifetime.
Good crayons and markers: you will come to hate crap office supplies from China
Gifts for 2 host families: be generous in your estimate of how many people are in a family. We don’t do it nuclear here.
Long underwear: I doubt you will suffer through the coldest winter since 1969, but it’s still good to have something under your koyneks.
A good sleeping bag: ditto on the winter, but you will crash on floors, trains, and my sleeping bag is the best thing I brought to this country.
Clothes: don’t overly stress about what to bring; be sort of conservative. Mostly, I recommend bringing stuff that’s durable. You will be hand washing and wearing and tearing. For training (girls) two or three below the knee skirts and some shirts will keep you in good stead. But if you have a pair of red shoes or a little black dress that you can’t live without, bring it. At any rate you can wear them in Ashgabat.
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