Picture Perfect

Me at Merv

Sultan Sanjar's Mausoleum, restored by the Turkish government

Mummy, Daddy and I at a wishing tree. I'm wearing my favorite koynek in case you wanted to know

An anchient and impressive fortress at Merv with very tiny looking German tourists

Seeing Sultan Sanjar's Mausoleum from inside the above fortress at Merv

Some more anchient things in Turkmenistan
The offerings at Talkuchka Bazaar...

Somewhere around the really big mosque...please note the rocking awesome sunglasses...high five kabuldan

An offering for fertility at the mosque ruins in Annew

the parentals and I in ashgabat with tea because that's my life

She Knows It’s To Late As You’re Walking Away written December 8, 2008

This has been a season of change and turmoil, which is one of the reasons that I’ve been a bit absent as a blogger. I didn’t—and still don’t—quite know how to explain how my world his being reshaped around me. I know I’m making this more melodramatic than it ultimately is, but it really does feel like everything is crashing down about my ankles, with something unknown emerging from the rubble.

The crashing down bit refers to the departure of the T-15s. In Mary, it was ultimately 3 out of an original 7 that managed to close their service. This means they were successful in their 2-year bid. For me, the 15s were this combination of friends, teachers, leaders, and gods. By the time we arrived at site, they had it down. They could find the post office, the cheapest beer, and a taxi to the airport at 4 am. Over this past year, some of the stardust and glamour has worn off as I have become more ept at being in Turkmenistan, but my admiration and awe at them has grown. Dave, Jess, and Mo were just amazing. Now, they are gone. They left in the first week of December, and I’m left with this strange combination of emotions. I am so proud that they made it, but despondent at their departure. I am happy for their futures, but jealous that I’m not there with them. Saying goodbye is part of this experience, but that doesn’t make it an easy one.

As far as emerging from the rubble, the new volunteers (the T-17s) have arrived at site. In Mary, there are 7 fresh-faced teachers—3 health and 4 English, 3 girls and 4 boys. They arrived at site yesterday. I wish them all the best, but I can’t help being apprehensive at the new dynamics that they will bring. The 16s in Mary have bonded during the past year. We may not be the best of friends always, but we fit in this comfortable, familiar way. New people may change that. I don’t doubt that this change will ultimately be for the better, but change—regardless—makes my stomach hurt.

So to the 15s when and if you read Turkmen blogs—you are sorely missed. No body can replace you, and I hope that only great things are happening right now. You deserve them all. To the 17s, who may have time and money to waste at the internet café, welcome. I really am excited to get to know you guys, and despite my irrational nervousness and fear of the unknown, I think this year will be great in large part due to you.

Gather the Grain and Share the Wine written December 9, 2008

This is a belated account of perhaps the best thanksgiving I have yet celebrated. Thanksgiving has always been a favorite holiday of mine. It is a holiday to celebrate being together with friends, neighbors, and family. It can be religiously based, but not necessarily. There is a basic menu (turkey, mashed potatoes, stuffing, and biscuits), but the trimmings and fixings are left to whim and tradition. No one’s thanksgiving is ever quite the same as anyone else’s, which makes it a fantastic holiday to share and reinvent.

So, thanksgiving in Turkmenistan…we had the basic menu. Halley raised and slaughtered with the aid of Clemens two turkeys. We had at least 4 kilos of mashed potatoes, and enough stuffing to stuff both turkeys and two casserole dishes. I baked the biscuits and they didn’t entirely suck. I was pleased with this, as it was the first time that I had made biscuits that didn’t come from a Pillsbury tube. We also had salad with real ranch dressing, beets with walnuts, carrots, squash, pretzels, pumpkin pie, brownies, and molasses sugar cookies. It was a feast for the ages.

A fun aside about the turkey slaughter—the actual death of the birds took place at dawn on Thanksgiving Day. I know dawn sounds melodramatic, but with dawn is at about 7:45 at this point. If we wanted thanksgiving at all, the turkeys had to die before the sun came up. I was not actually present at the event. Watching things die causes infertility, plus I had to work. Clemens was the chief executioner, and Halley his able-bodied assistant. Apparently the death part went well. There was a sharpened blade, and a mercifully quick deathblow. Halley and Clemens then took the carcasses to defeather them. They were working on the larger of the two birds when Halley’s host mom came out and said, “Halley-jan, where’s the other turkey?”

Yes, the dead bird had vanished. Clemens and Halley—I imagine—started running around like chickens with, well, their heads cut off. That image is sort of a cross between a bad pun and poorly placed irony, but it’s the best I can do. Finally, a small child who had been watching the Americans tells them that the dog has the bird. Yes, a dog stole our turkey. Clemens stepped up and did some serious battle and managed to wrest most of the bird from the jaws. In the end we lost most of the neck and one of the breasts. Rabies does die when you cook it at 420 degrees for four hours, right?
The meal was also the fond farewell for the T-15s all of whom left for greener pastures the following week. Angela made the most amazing tribute DVD. It was clips, music, and photos of a year’s adventures together. We had scenes at Merv, Ashgabat, conferences, and just hanging out. I cried a bit by the end. It’s hard to see friends go, but it really hard when they are as amazing as the 15s.

All Apoogies

To all my loyal readers. I know that many of you rely on this blog to keep track of my life, and I'm sorry it's been bland as of late. These past few months have been insane with work, life, and trying to take the first steps out. I'm taking my LSATs on Sunday. Anyway, this is a solemn promise that there will soon be blogs on thanksgiving, UNICEF, and a very kenyan christmas

KT

white wedding

my host sister as a bride

Like a Horse and Carriage

Written November 12, 2008

My host sister has been engaged for as long as I’ve known the family. when I arrived for my site visit last November, I was told her toy (wedding) would be held in March, right after her 17^th birthday. I was a little askanced at the age, but different times, places, and cultures. At any rate, the wedding was postponed several times. Weddings here are expensive and it takes time to gather up the funds.

As I left for turkey, I was told that the wedding would be held on the 20^th of October. I was a bit skeptical, as this was about the 4^th date I had been given. So, I went off to Turkey with my parents expecting to hear of another reason why the wedding would be delayed. Instead, I got back to Mary in the middle of a massive preparations.

For the girl’s toy, 400 people were coming to my house in the village to eat, drink, make toasts, and dance. On Sunday, I spent at least 4 hours stuffing peppers and cabbage leaves for soup. Pretty much all the relatives were enlisted. Neighbors were preparing Russian salads. Two cows were being slaughtered and a singer was brought in from the city. I was frankly overwhelmed. The festivities began about 7 pm. We ate, and I took lots of photographs. The dancing lasted until about 1 a.m. and then we did dishes until the wee hours.

The next morning was the Gelen Algy. This is a ritualized ‘claiming’ of the bride. The groom’s family and friends form raiding party. I’m sure in days past this was on horseback through the deserts, but now it’s done in Ladas and Camrys. The bride’s family meets the groom’s and tries to obstruct them from reaching the bride. The groom’s people have to bribe their way foreward with gifts of money, candy, hankerchiefs, and other such things. Also, there is a band playing.

Then the groom comes out with the bride. A Turkmen bride traditionally decked out is a site to behold. She wears an elaborately embroidered coat, covers her head completely, and has silver brooches and jewelry (weiging up to 20 kilos) all over her. She doesn’t speak. The groom’s family has to buy the bride’s shoes. My host sister’s cost 200,000 manat. I am told this is quite expensive, but my host sister’s worth it. The night of the Gelen Algy is the Groom’s toy. This party was held in a restaurant in Mary City, but it had the same food, fun, dancing, and photographs. Good times rolled. I made a toast to a bright future, many children, and good health, and I do wish that for Leyla and Dowlet.

That concluded the direct wedding related festivities, but a week after the wedding I had to attend a Gelen Cagrygy. This is a meal that the bride puts on in her new home for her unmarried female relatives. It gives us a chance to check in on her and make sure she’s alright. It was a lot of fun, and I could tell my host sister enjoyed being mistress of ceremonies. I took more photos. If the internet is moving fast enough I will be posting them, but we shall see. There will be another Gelen Cagyrgy at my house sometime next week or the week after. I am told that will be the end of the wedding related events.

It’s been a bit of a head trip, but one that I’m glad I got to take.

So Baby Close Your Eyes To the Lullabies On the News Tonight

Written November 12

I’ve been a very bad blogger and profuse apologies to those who look to Lawyers, Guns, and Money for up the minute updates on life in Turkmenistan. Life has been busy for the past month. Many milestones have been passed.

First, new volunteers arrived. There are currently 43 new volunteers trucking through training and stepping up to fill the spaces that will be left when the T-15s leave.

Second, my parents came to visit. This was fantastic on many fronts. I saw my mommy and my daddy for the first time in more than a year. We spent a week trekking around Ashgabat, Mary, and my oba. Yes, the American parents spent 2 and a half days in the village, meeting my friends and seeing where I live. It was great!

Third, I went on a vacation! I took my first vacation out of country. Mummy, Daddy, and I spent 6 days in Istanbul and Antalya. It was really nice to have a breather for a few days. Plus, Turkey is a fantastic country and I totally suggest that other people visit. There is much to do and more to see.

Fourth, my host sister, who has been engaged as long as I’ve known her, got married upon my return from vacation. There was a wedding party for 400 in my yard. You can imagine, I’m sure, the huge amount of peppers that have to be stuffed to feed 400. It’s a lot, in case you can’t. The Turkmen wedding takes up a fair amount of time, money, and effort. But, it was fascinating to see a whole deal from start to finish. I’ll probably write a complete blog about this when the last of my wedding related obligations are completed. There is still another dinner deal I must attend.

Fifth, and final: those new volunteers that were mentioned way back on the beginning came to Mary for their site visits. Of the 43, 7 are coming to my welyat and we rolled out the red carpet for them. Due to budget cuts and whatnot, training has been cut by two weeks, so the new volunteers arrive at site permanently around December 8^th. I continue to wish them the best in traning. I’m excited to get to know them later.

Anyway, that’s my deal…I’ve been busy. It’s been cold and I promise to do better. Upcoming events include: Thanksgiving with organic turkeys, LSAT and adventures in Ashgabat, and a holiday trip home!